The Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)- Plants for Furlong Pa
Actually a colorful fall foliage selection as the name implies, a deciduous
shrub specie from the Tree Family Celastraceae, the "Staff-Tree Family," it is
NOT the description of A PROTEST action against our President.
'hope the title didn't mislead you, 'cause if it did, you'll STILL learn about
a marvelous shrub. Burning Bush, a non-native species brought from China and
Korea since the 1860's, has escaped from ornamental plantings into urban and
rural areas. It travels widely by way of its seed. This hardy plant is found in
forests and brushy areas. Burning Bushes will grow well even in SHADE, with very
little sun.
It is happily, not a murderous invasive species, killing absolutely every other
plant around it like Crown Vetch, but this "invasive" WILL cause anything below
it to starve for almost any light. It's more than just a "traveling plant."
Burning Bush is also known as the Winged Euonymous, Winged Wahoo, Winged
Spindle Tree, all for the cork-like tabs along its branches and stems, as well
as being called the Japanese Spincle Tree, and of course, the Cork Bush. That's
a lot of names.
This vase-shaped shrub has great red fall foliage which glows for weeks in
early to mid-autumn, hence, its name, Burning Bush. Hedges can be sheared or
globes created for decorative landscape plantings, topiaries (sculpted bush
art), Burning Bushes are good for all.
Hedges from Burning Bushes can be very dense giving good screening of wind, any
sun, and create privacy, even during the winter. If left unpruned, the compact
form of Burning Bush will grow to about 12 feet tall and 15 feet wide. The
winged form will grow to about 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. In our area, the
Burning Bush propagates naturally in shaded areas. We obtain some of our stock
from seedlings we gather at a small farm cemetery on our property. Burning Bush
even regrows after transplanting from the empty holes where roots are exposed!
Burning Bush is adaptable to a variety of soil conditions: Fertile to sterile,
organic to clay, acidic to alkaline, rocky to sandy, this plant proves its
strength. It does NOT like any wet soils, it is important to note, but it does
do well in very dry soils. Burning Bush has small fibrous roots near the surface
and responds well to root pruning. Balling and burlapping this shrub for
transplanting does little damage, for Burning Bushes can take abuse and recover
quickly.
IF YOU HAVE A "BROWN THUMB," THIS IS A PLANT FOR YOU.
You can see more of Bill's planting tips and articles at
http://www.seedlingsrus.com or http://www.zone5trees.com and his first website,
www.highlandhillfarm.com
About the Author
For the past 26 years, Bill has been raising and marketing trees and plants on
his 250 acres of farms near Doylestown, Pennsylvania, 25 miles north of
Philadelphia.
His websites are: http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.zone5trees.com -
Cheap Trees 0001 River Birch Trees are fairly easy to plant because they are
fairly rugged and durable. These trees are cheap but best feature is there ease
in transplanting. Yet to plant or transplant them you do need to follow some
basic guidelines. Two of the best types or River Birch trees are Dura Heat and
Heritage River Birches. We have been growing River Birch Trees for a number of
years and offer these suggestions for planting in Doylestown. All people
handling Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches seedlings and small trees need to
help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water
and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are
lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and
reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature
extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled
carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them
immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad.
I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I
realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended Length of
time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold,
protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the Dura Heat and
Heritage River Birches trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees
need water, feel the media at the roots. If it isn't damp, water the trees and
allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to
these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either
restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at
regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air
movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider
waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE
PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good
planting conditions. HOW TO PLANT Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with
little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil
should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make
sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be
carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed
around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept
refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees. Competition from
weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of
seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a
three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted
under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush.
Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as
leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic
matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots
will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure
the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled
or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often
weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree
out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the
fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots
lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have
stomata (close-able openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings
to help reduce water loss. If the Dura Heat and Heritage River Birches roots
feel dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,"I will place them
in a bucket of water and store them there until planting". This will not work.
Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water
cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a
containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is
to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the
hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is
neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall
in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush the roots by
jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around
the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp.
Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will
be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly
anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree
leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant
vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in
planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried
to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning,
but I always have had trouble in harvesting .... digging is slower and poor
quality usually results for a portion of the crop. Avoid these tree planting
errors: Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets
Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant
of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and
leach fields, on sand mounds CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check
periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under
control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments.
Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control adviser before using
chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of
chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs
of insects, diseases or other problems. Appearances also help sell your product.
Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor
health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is
detected early. Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You
probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your
trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next
watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent,
shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more
dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of
damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are
the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your
game commission and get their recommendations on legal methods to protect your
crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer
that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away
from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any
other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost
more seedlings and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and
rabbit ts combined. You an see more articles about the care of trees plants and
nursery stock at our web site: http://www.seedlingsrus.com and
http://www.highlandhillfarm.com About the Author Bill has been growing trees and
plants in Pennsylvania for over 25 years. His web sites include
http://www.seedlingsrus.com http://www.huntingrelics.com and
http://www.zone5trees.com
You may view the latest post at
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