Micro inflammation accelerates both weight gain and premature aging and food is
a huge factor in causing inflamation. If the inflammation is in the arteries we
end up with cardiovascular disease and if the inflammation is in the skin we end
up with accelerated aging. Once we understand this the next question is what
type of therapeutic intervention can we do to interrupt micro inflammation?An
anti inflammatory diet is the first an most important step.SalmonPowerful
InflammatorySalmon contains high levels of Omega 3 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty
acids are crucial for building the cell membrane, we need Omega 3 fatty acids to
make our cells healthy. Omega 3 acts as a natural anti-inflammatory in the body,
it decreases our risk of heart disease, it makes our brains work better, and it
even elevates our mood.Salmon also contains the very powerful antioxidant
astaxanthan which is responsible for the pink color of salmon. Astaxanthan is
about 100 times stronger than vitamin e.BlueberriesStrong antioxidant and
anti-inflammatoryTufts University analyzed 60 fruits and vegetables for their
antioxidant capability. Blueberries came out on top, rating highest in their
capacity to destroy free radicals. Blueberries contain phytonutrients called
anthocyanidins which literally neutralize free radical damage to our cells and
tissues.Green Tea?The absolute miracle?Green tea contains large amounts of
anti-inflamitories. Green tea is healthy because it reduces inflammation which
also helps us lose weight.Coffee does just the opposite.It?s not just the
caffeine in coffee that?s unhealthy, coffee also contains organic acids that can
throw off blood sugar and insulin.If you take away coffee and just add green tea
in most cases and if you do nothing else there is usually a 6-10 pound weight
loss in 4 - 6
weeks.http://www.carbohydrate-guide.com/archives/2007/03/14/top-3-weight-loss-and-anti-aging-foods.html
- The successful management of a hobby greenhouse depends upon following simple
rules regularly and applying common sense. A greenhouse is a responsibility
rather like a dog or cat, for no day goes by without its inhabitants demanding
some attention. Regular watering may seem obvious, but it is surprising how many
gardeners water when they have to, to the detriment of the plants. Good stable
growth can never be achieved by irregular watering. A humid atmosphere is
beneficial, especially during the summer months. Regular spraying of the path
and gravel under the benches helps. Avoid getting water on the foliage of plants
during hot sunny weather. The droplets of water serve as small magnifying
glasses during bright sunshine and the leaf tissue beneath becomes scorched.
During the late spring and peak summer period the greenhouse must be provided
with some kind of shading. Roller blinds are expensive, but very effective,
although most of the sun shade products that are mixed with water and applied
with a brush are equally functional, if not as visually pleasing. Ventilation
should be applied freely during warm weather and moderately during cooler
periods. The free circulation of air amongst plants helps to reduce the
incidence of common fungal diseases like botrytis. During the duller days of
winter and early spring ensure that maximum light is admitted to the greenhouse.
Clean the glass in the fall and then again during early spring. Cleanliness is
important in all parts of the structure if pests and diseases are to be
successfully controlled. The thorough cleaning of the rafters, brickwork and
other fixtures during the winter with a strong garden disinfectant will pay
dividends. Dead leaves and discarded plants should be disposed of regularly and
should not be allowed to accumulate beneath the staging where they will harbor
pests and diseases. Regular cleaning and maintenance results in healthy plants
and a trouble-free structure in which to produce them. One of the on-going
activities in a well managed greenhouse is re-potting. This applies to all
permanent plants and those that are growing on and need periodic removal to a
larger pot size. Some flowering plants like pot chrysanthemums and primulas are
completely exhausted after flowering and are best discarded rather than
re-potted. They rarely regain their former glory. Re-potting often causes some
consternation, particularly to new gardeners, for there is believed to be a
certain mystique surrounding the operation and an uncertainty as to when to
perform it. It is obviously better to re-pot a plant just before it needs it,
but the beginner may have difficulty in recognizing just when that is, so plants
are often allowed to go beyond that point and start to deteriorate. Paleness of
foliage and gaunt appearance is the overall aspect of a plant that is in need of
re-potting. The pot-ball will be hard and congested, often with roots pushing
out through the drainage holes of the pot. The compost surface will also
probably have a stale look about it heightened by the presence of mosses or
liverworts. When re-potted, pot-bound plants rapidly recover from their ordeal,
but it is better to catch them before they go into decline so that strong
healthy growth can continue unchecked. During the active growing period do not
be frightened to turn a plant out of its pot and inspect the root-ball. There is
no need to pull it about, but a regular inspection will indicate whether
everything is in good order. Do not pay too much regard to the concentrated
presence of roots towards the sides of the pot, for it is quite natural for them
to gravitate there. It is not necessarily an indication that the plant must be
re-potted. Similarly roots that push through the drainage holes may not always
indicate congestion within the pot, for if the pot has been stood on a gravel
tray in moist conditions it is quite normal for roots to probe around outside.
The best way to tell whether a plant needs re-potting is to pinch the root-ball
with your fingers. If there is any flexibility in the compost it shows that the
pot-ball has not been completely ramified by roots and therefore nothing need
yet be done. If the root-ball feels hard and solid, then re-potting is clearly a
matter of priority. Re-potting is also necessary if you spot tiny flies jumping
around on the surface of the compost. These are feeding on decomposing organic
matter in a compost that has passed its useful life. They disappear immediately
after re-potting. Most greenhouse plants need feeding if they are to give of
their best. This is most effective when they are in active growth, either
immediately after they have started to sprout or following the formation of
flower buds. The feeding program is different for individual plant types, but
the exact rates that should be used will be found on the containers of modern
proprietary plant foods. The levels of nitrate, phosphate and potash are also
noted, so that a suitable feed can be chosen depending upon whether it is to be
directed to fruit and flower production or foliage and root development. It is
important to introduce a general spraying program to the greenhouse.
Irrespective of the plants being grown, insect pests and fungal diseases will
appear. Check carefully that the fungicide and insecticide mix so that you can
spray in one go. Instructions will be clearly stated on the package. These will
also indicate any plant sensitivity to the product. Systemic pesticides are the
only ones that can be used for such a spraying program. These are absorbed by
the foliage, taken into the sap stream of the plant and serve as an inoculation.
To maintain the protection, spraying will be required every three weeks or so.
There are certain pests and diseases that are not controlled effectively by
systemic products and these need dealing with individually with contact
pesticides. About the Author Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening
experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural
consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East
and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a
Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers' Association of America. He is also
a former UK Garden Writer of the Year.
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