วันพุธที่ 8 กรกฎาคม พ.ศ. 2552

[] Top 3 Weight Loss and Anti-Aging Foods

has posted a new item, 'Top 3 Weight Loss and Anti-Aging Foods'

Micro inflammation accelerates both weight gain and premature aging and food is
a huge factor in causing inflamation. If the inflammation is in the arteries we
end up with cardiovascular disease and if the inflammation is in the skin we end
up with accelerated aging. Once we understand this the next question is what
type of therapeutic intervention can we do to interrupt micro inflammation?An
anti inflammatory diet is the first an most important step.SalmonPowerful
InflammatorySalmon contains high levels of Omega 3 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty
acids are crucial for building the cell membrane, we need Omega 3 fatty acids to
make our cells healthy. Omega 3 acts as a natural anti-inflammatory in the body,
it decreases our risk of heart disease, it makes our brains work better, and it
even elevates our mood.Salmon also contains the very powerful antioxidant
astaxanthan which is responsible for the pink color of salmon. Astaxanthan is
about 100 times stronger than vitamin e.BlueberriesStrong antioxidant and
anti-inflammatoryTufts University analyzed 60 fruits and vegetables for their
antioxidant capability. Blueberries came out on top, rating highest in their
capacity to destroy free radicals. Blueberries contain phytonutrients called
anthocyanidins which literally neutralize free radical damage to our cells and
tissues.Green Tea?The absolute miracle?Green tea contains large amounts of
anti-inflamitories. Green tea is healthy because it reduces inflammation which
also helps us lose weight.Coffee does just the opposite.It?s not just the
caffeine in coffee that?s unhealthy, coffee also contains organic acids that can
throw off blood sugar and insulin.If you take away coffee and just add green tea
in most cases and if you do nothing else there is usually a 6-10 pound weight
loss in 4 - 6
weeks.http://www.carbohydrate-guide.com/archives/2007/03/14/top-3-weight-loss-and-anti-aging-foods.html
- About White Pine Trees .... Planting Guide # 18888 Whenever I think of
white pines, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near white pine
trees that were giants. Now every pine tree I plant, I can see those days in the
deep woods and those grand trees and hope someone else will have that same
enjoyment. These trees will help you too in establish a desired vision to your
landscape whether it be for specimen plants, screens and buffers, or reforesting
a woodlot. Beyond their size, white pines also fill important ecological niches.
They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban conditions, finding much of
North America to their liking. White Pine trees need protection from deer,
disease, insects, and competing weeds and shrubs. The better your weed control
the better your trees will grow. When seedlings are planted, it best to plant
them with large spacings to allow more light to the plant. If these trees are
planted in shade, they tend to be more open. White pines are used around new
construction because they perform in a wide range of soil conditions. If you
have compacted soil from new construction, we suggest smaller trees of 3-5'
height. All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with the
life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care
which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and
transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the
wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well
as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a
higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like
to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes
switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the
soil conditions will not be right for an extended Length of time. If planting
must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air
circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check
if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn't damp, water
the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the
biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings
moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting
the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce
temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out
seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are
correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth
waiting for good planting conditions. HOW TO PLANT Ideal planting days are
cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm,
windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important
than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root
seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist
material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes
should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don't freeze the trees.
Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to
survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or
clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should
not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to
existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic
material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral
soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave
air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the
hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If
roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water
correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root
structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is
ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds.
Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more
protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (close-able openings on the
surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the
roots appear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,"I will
place them in a bucket of water and store them there until planting". This will
not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them
in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before
planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just
starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in
place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that
the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing
soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don't crush
the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake
curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if
necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around
the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the
seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up
then have the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of
fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally
necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more
valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over
planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting ....
digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop.
Avoid these tree planting errors: Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting
too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting
trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over
rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING
PLANTING Check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is
kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these
treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control adviser before
using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of
chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs
of insects, diseases or other problems. Appearances also help sell your product.
Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor
health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is
detected early. Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You
probably won't need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your
trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next
watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent,
shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more
dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a major cause of
damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are
the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your
game commission and get their recommendations on legal methods to protect your
crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer
that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away
from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any
other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost
more seedlings and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and
rabbits combined. You can see other articles written by Bill Hirst about trees,
plants, and shrubs at: http://www.zone5trees.com
http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html
http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter
http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html
http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html About the Author Hirst Has been
growing plants ans shrubs in Doylestown , Bucks County Pa. formany years. His
web sites include http://www.zone5trees.com http://www.seedlingsrus.com and
http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

You may view the latest post at
http://www.richproject.co.cc/?p=2030

You received this e-mail because you asked to be notified when new updates are
posted.
Best regards,
admin
k_malee@hotmail.com

ไม่มีความคิดเห็น:

แสดงความคิดเห็น